🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.